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Cure
This link is very important! Thermal transfer is only partially cured. That is, it cures at about 250 degrees Fahrenheit (121 degrees Celsius). Only when printed on garments will they fully cure. If they are fully cured at the time of manufacture, they will not re-dissolve well into the garment when printed. A standard thermosetting oven or flash drying device is required to cure the transfer. Uncured hot-striped transfer prints are hazardous. At about 190 degrees Fahrenheit, the ink partially solidifies or solidifies. When the excess plasticizer does not solidify in actual operation, the transfer material is undesirably dried and solidified. These plasticizers may be separated from the ink and penetrate into the paper, resulting in an imbalance in the composition of the ink, and the transfer may not work properly.
One way to tell if a transfer item is not completely cured is to cure it (or heat it in a heater) through a curing oven to see how long it will take for them to feel just dry. If a belt dryer is used, the curing time in the drying tunnel can be as short as ten seconds; in a scintillation dryer or hot press, it takes only five to ten seconds. If the print has been partially cured, it feels dry (may be sticky when hot). The cured transfer paper can be stacked.
When using hot-exfoliation transfer, the hot press should be set to high pressure and set at 375 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (190 to 204 degrees Celsius), apply on the transfer for 10 seconds, remove immediately after removing the hot press and quickly Separate paper and ink. If the paper is cooled after peeling it off, the transfer product will have an elastic texture—that is, cold peeling. If the cooling time is too long, simply reheat the transfer and remove the paper when it is hot. If the print cannot be completely peeled off, the hot press may be too cold. If you are not sure, raise the temperature to approximately 400 degrees Fahrenheit (204 degrees Celsius).
The above is a brief operation procedure. The key step is to screen-print the special thermosetting ink to the heat transfer release paper through a coarse hole screen, partially cure the ink, and quickly peel off the paper after being pressed into the shirt.
Hot peel printing is similar to direct screen printing, except that you can only print one color at a time. The paper can be printed on the plate by using glue to fix it, and if a special vacuum is used to protect the paper during production, the printing is much easier. This can be a separate print or a simple embellishment printed on a T-shirt. If it is to make color transfer printing, it is best to use a resin glass vacuum table, because it can give light from the table below, and then how to arrange other colors to see very clearly. Avoid touching and using a pointed medium squeegee when printing. Printing is best done once, so that there will be a clear printing effect. The order of color printing is just the opposite of direct printing. Embossed first (usually black). Of course, it is also possible to use a transparent ink for multicolor printing to produce a composite color effect. As mentioned before, the first printed color is to be completely cured and then printed in another way, as is done. If it is color printing, a standard three-point positioning device can be used so that each time the paper is accurately positioned at the same position. This is as simple as punctuation on a small strip of card paper. These punctuation mark on the paper, so that the pattern will appear in the same position on each sheet.